Text and photos by Amy Morison

“Ðập cổ- kính ra, tìm lấy bóng
Xếp tàn-y lại để dành hơi”

I break the old mirror to find your shadow
I fold your fading clothes to keep your warmth

The above verse perfectly encapsulates the personality of Tu Duc – one of Vietnam’s most famous emperor’s – who was considered, unsurprisingly, as a melancholy romantic. This was certainly an ideal disposition for a poet, but not exactly for a ruler. And Tu Duc’s reign was indeed a conflicted one, as was his soul. The love poem “”Khóc Bằng Phi”, from which those two lines are extracted, have been immortalized both in print and in song – the lyrics comprise a ballad commonly sung in Vietnamese karaoke bars today. Written to honour his favourite concubine Bang Phi at her funeral (she must have been an extraordinary mistress considering he kept a harem of 104 wives), Tu Duc reveals to us his sensitive side; a trait that is further emulated in the grounds of his royal tomb.
A visit to Hue would not be complete without seeing the sprawling complex of Tu Duc’s tomb, which served as a personal resort for the emperor during his rule. Some Vietnamese refer to Tu Duc as the ‘real’ last emperor of Vietnam (instead of the late Bao Dai who abdicated the throne in 1945), as his reign marked the end of an independent Nguyen dynasty when Southern lands were seceded to the French (these colonial lands were referred to as Cochinchina).

To escape a royal reign fraught with complications, Tu Duc would retreat into the 30-acre tomb grounds to walk, fish, hunt, enjoy theatrical performances and, of course, to write. The pine forested realm of his tomb complex includes a spherical lake with a small island and open pavilion where he once enjoyed music, poetry and dramatic recitals. The tomb site was more of a sanctuary for the emperor poet during his life rather than in death – and in actuality his remains were buried elsewhere in a secret location to prevent thievery.

Yet while Tu Duc’s tomb indicates a cultured nature and a desire to lead a humble lifestyle instead of one bestowed upon royalty (each of the monuments within the tomb include the word “Khiem” which in Vietnamese translates to modesty), the reality was and is, that the emperor poet reigned during the height of lavish expenditure and opulence in the Nguyen royal court. His sensitive side may have been expressed in the words he composed whilst in the beautiful surrounds of his tomb site, but Tu Duc was notably indifferent to the thousands of artisans and workers conscripted to building the burial complex. In other words, it was obvious he did not want the responsibilities that came with the royal title but certainly took advantage of the many luxuries that were granted him for being king.

Tu Duc became emperor under conspicuous circumstances – his father, Thieu Tri passed the throne to Tu Duc instead of his elder brother, Hong Bao because Tu Duc was a hard line nationalist and Confucion (he opposed any kind of foreign influence in Vietnam) whilst Hong Bao encouraged foreign trade, innovation and the work of the missionaries. As a result of this slight, Hong Bao joined with foreign forces and locals to rally against the king and was eventually captured and imprisoned. He committed suicide in jail, an act that forever haunted Tu Duc during his reign. Moreover, the emperor poet had been a sickly child, and a case of small pox had rendered him infertile, making him all the more insecure as an adult king. His punishment of Christian missionaries and converts not only led to several internal rebellions but further incurred the wrath of Catholic France, and he eventually had to sign a treaty with France to retain a portion of royal authority (the Nguyen armies were simply not a match for the French with their outdated weaponry and tactics). This was a humiliating defeat for the emperor who, according to legend, cursed the French with his dying breath in 1883.

Despite his flawed rule, Tu Duc did leave behind a remarkable tomb site and one that is favoured by tourists today. Only 8 kilometres from the city centre, the complex includes a temple area and tomb area, with monuments for the emperor, his chief empress and appointed son (his nephew Duc Duc) who died early into his reign. The woodland grounds are peaceful and perfect for picnicking or pontificating. One can easily see why the emperor poet found such solace here. Signage in Vietnamese and English translation provide plenty of information about the tomb and temple statues inside.

http://www.la-residence-hue.com

Getting there: Tu Duc tomb is only 15 minutes drive from the centre, so a taxi or private car is easiest. Along the way, you will see incensing making stalls lining the road. Be sure to stop and partake in a quick lesson and take some photos of the colourful incense sticks.

Ticket cost: At the time this was written, the entrance fee for Tu Duc tomb was 80,000vnd per person.

To arrange a private tour to Tu Duc Tombs and other attractions in Hue, contact La Residence Hotel & Spa‘s Front Desk team directly.

La Résidence Hôtel & Spa
Add:5 Le Loi Street – Hue City, Vietnam,
Tel: (84) 054 3837 475
Fax: (84) 054 3837 476
E-mail: resa@la-residence-hue.com
Website: www.la-residence-hue.com