How to Spend an Afternoon in Setenil de las Bodegas

Andalucía is known for its “pueblos blancos,” or white towns, that crown the small mountains of the region and cascade down their slopes. However, there is one town that breaks the status quo by hiding itself in between the cliffs. The town, named Setenil de las Bodegas, has morphed itself within the fortitude of the ancient rock formations – a symbol of its durability to withstand the ages.

This town is located in the province of Cadiz and is one of the most unique towns in Andalucía. Evidence suggests that the local caves have been inhabited for at least 5000 years. Today, it is a sleepy village with a small population of about 2,700 inhabitants living among the mountains and caves.

I have been to this village twice, and each time have enjoyed observing the way the homes, restaurants, and shops are built into the stone façade of the cliffs. Many shops have exposed cave stones for a back wall instead of a manufactured wall, and there are two sections of the main road where the cliffs cover the road and buildings entirely. Here, I usually pick up various regional wines and enjoy having a drink and tapas in the shade of the rock formations.

If you are driving through Andalucía, I suggest coming to Setenil de las Bodegas for a few hours before heading to Ronda or Malaga. There are also many guided tours that visit Setenil de las Bodegas and Ronda from cities like Malaga, Costa del Sol, and Marbella. Seeing how locals live and admiring the unique environment is an enriching experience I sincerely enjoyed.