Steadycam for ursa mini

I try to stabilise my ursa mini kit with my steadycam CAME S-120 CARBON FIBER STEADYCAM KIT + CAME 303 VEST + ARM but i dont successful. Theoretically this steadycam must to accommodate up to 7 kg. My ursa mini 4K kit is approximate 5 kg (body+viewfinder+shoulder mount+VLock Battery Plate+lens Canon 24-70 f2.8 II+Vmount battery). I see this movie

with a ursamini and a similar steadycam. But i dont know if is just the body or full accesorised. I need to can stabilise with all accesories beacause at wedding shooting i dont have enought time to assemble and disassemble many time in a single day. Any suggestion?

I know this isn't the answer to the question you asked, but if you need to work quickly and move rapidly between steadicam shots and tripod/handheld, my advice would be to get a Blackmagic Pocket Camera and just permanently attach it to a Letus Helix Jr.

I shoot documentaries where I have to move fast all day, and by leaving a BMD Pocket Camera+10mm SLR Magic lens on the Helix Jr., I can have it pre-balanced in a backpack and then simply pull it out whenever it's needed. I've tried full vests and also briefly owned a DJI Ronin, and compared to those setups the Helix Jr. plus BMPCC combo simply can't be beat for ease of use and speed.

What I've not yet tested are any of the single handle gimble devices. Perhaps those would work even better with the Pocket Camera.

The Pocket Camera isn't 4K, but with all the motion in the frame of a dynamic gimbal shot, the resolution difference isn't very apparent on screen.

I think you've under-estimated the weight of your camera rig... aren't you using the top handle with the EVF and what about a VCT plate to attach the camera to the steadicam? I think 6-7kg is more like the weight... In the video the camera is swaying like a ship and intuition tells me its likely top heavy though I'm no expert. Would recommend taking off the shoulder plate and mounting the camera directly to the sled... also try without the EVF + top handle to save a little extra weight.

Highly recommend videos on how to balance your rig... Here' an old but very comprehensive tutorial on how setup and use a steadicam.

Also optimally you should try to achieve both static and dynamic balance... and here's a great demonstration...

If you want to fly the Ursa Mini in all its glory I'm thinking you'll need a steadicam that supports a 10kg+ payload... especially with matteboxes and wireless accessories.

It's not just getting your rig balanced, it's practise practise practise... you have to become one with the rig.
For run and gun shoots on a wedding I wouldn't recommend using Steadicam, unless you have a second handheld rig available. So you can jump in and out without the need balancing your rig.

I can diminuate the 5K wight of my ursa mini kit (body+viewfinder+shoulder mount kit+ battery) if i can remove from v-lock battery plate and keep the battery attached to my body. The battery weight is 870 g, and i cand assemble and disassemble very fast the battery. What i need is a compatible cable from v-mount battery to v-lock battery plate. I searching of internet but no result. Where i can find this cable? Can give me a link?

I think having a Came-TV stabilizer instead of a real Steadicam may be a part of the problem.

I fly my Ursa Mini 4.6K EF on a very customized Tiffen Steadicam Mini (2003 vintage). The rig has a capacity of 7kgs and with the camera set up with a Rokinon prime lens, Chrosziel 3 stage mattebox, remote FF system, short mounting plate and no EVF, it comes in at just that weight and fly's perfectly in dynamic balance.

Good luck,
Norbert

What cable is compatible from v-mount battery to v-lock battery plate? Can give me a link?

Don't waste your time trying to carry the battery on your body with a power cable to the camera, it just screws up the possibility of keeping the rig balanced.

Get out the drill and make appropriate holes that will allow you to run a video and power cable down through the post and replace one of the weight stacks with a swivel monitor mount and the other with aspare V-lock mount. This is relatively easy to do or find a friend who can help.

I've always customized the 4 rigs I've owned to get it to work the way I want, you can too.

Cheers
Norbert

Don't waste your time trying to carry the battery on your body with a power cable to the camera, it just screws up the possibility of keeping the rig balanced.

Its a cheap way to reduce the stabilisation weight with almost 1 kg. My budget is very limited. Moreover its a very fast solution, its very easy to put or remove the v-mount battery on the v-lock battery plate.

Okay Michael, it's your call. If I were in you position with $$$ concerns, I'd try to figure out anything that will get the battery where it belongs .... on the sled's lower stage.

I just know whenever I'm tethered with a video cable to the directors monitor it's a major pain in the butt and regularly causes balance issues and the re-takes. I'm trying to save the $2k or so I need to buy an HD TX/RX system that will eliminate the problem.

Best of luck with it all.
Cheers
Norbert

Can somedbody tell me what cable is compatible from v-mount battery to v-lock battery plate? Can give me a model or a link?

Can somedbody tell me what cable is compatible from v-mount battery to v-lock battery plate? Can give me a model or a link?

You mean like a P-tap cable? Male to female?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... le_to.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/ ... le_to.html

No, its not OK. Because the v-lock battery plate have a p-tap port just for out, not for in. I need a cable with 5 pin male and female to attache one head at v-lock battery plate 5 pin port (power in) and another head at 5 pin v-mount battery (power out). Somethink like this: http://www.swit.cc/productshow.aspx?id=136
But not with 4-pin XLR DC head, i need a 2 v-mount head.