[Hidden Gem Alert] The Village of Rastoke, Croatia

Rastoke, Croatia: Waterfalls, Ruins & Relaxation

On Easter weekend of 2018, we took a spontaneous road trip from Berlin down to Croatia. The main draws of Croatia for us were the abandoned monument at Petrova Gora and the epic emerald waterfalls in Plitvice Lakes National Park. In order to have multiple days to explore the nature, we wanted to spend 2 nights somewhere close to Plitvice. However, accommodation in or super near the park was simply out of our budget. I researched small, less tourist-oriented towns not too far from Plitvice and this is how fate led me to the true hidden gem of Rastoke, Croatia. Though only an afterthought, this spectacular village turned out to be one of the highlights of our time in Croatia.

Read Ahead:

• The history of Rastoke
• Rastoke: What to do there
• Accommodation in Rastoke, Croatia

The history of Rastoke

Today the historic center of the town of Slunj, Rastoke, is a romantic mill village wrapped in mountains and rivers, but things haven’t always been so peaceful.

The town dates back to 12th Century early feudal times and is said to have been built by the Croatian king, Zvonimir. In the 16th Century, Slunj was located in a sort of ‘no man’s land’ between Europe and the Ottoman Empire. The Fortification of Slovin was built in 1579 and the town became ideal as a military headquarters thanks to it’s defensive positioning with steep rocky cliffs and the surrounding rivers. The Ottomans attacked Slunj over 13 times, eventually devestating the village.

After this time of fighting had passed, Rastoke developed as a remote mill town in the 17th Century with 22 watermills at it’s peak in the 18th Century. The oldest buildings you see today were built under French rule as the town was located on the eastern border of Napoleon’s Empire from 1809 until 1813. Culture shifted dramatically during this period due to the French Revolution. Most notably, Croatian became the main language and democracy was introduced.

Unfortunately, the peaceful times didn’t last and during the Yugoslav Wars in the first half of the 1990’s, an attempt was made to blow up the automobile bridge and several historical houses were damaged. One of the waterfalls was also damaged with bombs, however, the town has almost completely been restored since then. When you experience the tranquility of Rastoke today, it feels hard to believe that it’s seen so much action.

A rainbow ends at the ruins of the Fortification of Slovin

Where the Slunjčica River meets the Korana River

Rastoke: What to do there?

Rastoke is a very small and relatively isolated village nestled in a canyon along the Korana River. What’s special about the town is the abundance of waterfalls which lends to Rastoke’s nickname, ‘Little Plitvice’. Connected to the larger falls at Plitvice, it’s the emerald green Slunjčica River that runs through the town and falls over the local waterfalls into the Korana River. Mini waterfalls rush directly underneath many of the watermill houses while other houses are located on tiny islands surrounded by baby canals. The architecture is traditional and much of the town dates back 300 years and you can even check out the 16th Century fort ruins just a short hike away.

Besides the village being a fantastic model to photograph, there is plenty of nature around to explore and it’s only a 15 minute drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park. The region advertises plenty of activities like horse back riding, rafting and spelunking to name a few, but between the smell of firewood in the air and the gentle background sound of waterfalls, I found Rastoke to be the perfect place to just relax while also being conveniently located between the Petrova Gora Monument and Plitvice. I could have happily stayed in Rastoke for a couple of weeks and during this trip, I gained a new appreciation for focusing on travels to smaller places, not just the larger cities I’ve heard of before.

Accommodation in Rastoke, Croatia

Rastoke is the protected historical area of the larger town of Slunj. Slunj is a typical rural Croatian town and most definitely not a tourist destination. However, Rastoke is a sight to be seen and isn’t totally undiscovered by tourists. Many of the historical houses are now used as lodging, the restaurants have English on their menus and you might witness the occasional tour group on a weekend. What’s important is that the town is not overrun with tourists and that even though the village might look like a fairy tale movie set, it’s a place where real people live, not all of who are working in the tourism industry.

As for accommodation, we stayed in a guest house on the hill overlooking Rastoke and I think the breathtaking view of the waterfalls and village made it an even better choice than staying directly in the town.