Review: Catedral de Barcelona

Tell me: What’s this place all about?
It’s impossible to wander the spider-web streets of Barcelona’s old town without being trapped by the presence of its cathedral. It might not have the quirkiness nor the hype of La Sagrada Família, but it holds court: a giant Gothic temple that looms large against the narrow lanes and matchbox shops. Its site originally housed a Roman temple, some 2,000 years ago, when Barcelona was still called Bàrcino (you can track down parts of the old Roman walls and aqueduct nearby). Today, the cathedral’s official name, Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, honors Eulalia, a local girl who refused to accept Roman emperor Diocletian’s demand to recant her Christian faith. His retaliation was 13 forms of torture, followed by decapitation, during which a dove is said to have flown from her neck. It’s why, inside the cathedral’s cloisters, you’ll find a pond with 13 white geese. Not statues, but living, squawking geese.

Wow. What’s the vibe inside?
Awe and respect: the cathedral is strikingly intricate, and its monthly organ recitals are particularly powerful. As much a practicing religious venue as a site of interest, it’s worth mentioning to be conservative with your clothing—covered shoulders and legs will be appreciated.

Who comes here?
Worshippers and sightseers. For the latter, tickets cost €9 ($9). 

Did it meet expectations?
It’s beautiful and atmospheric, as religious buildings so often are. Regardless of your personal level of piety, the architecture inside—plus the city view from the short elevator ride to the top—is quite something.

Got it. So, then, what, or who, do you think it’s best for?
A walk-by, minimum, is a must. Street performers singing and playing instruments in the surrounding lanes make the experience much more memorable than you might think.