Review: Centre Pompidou

Zoom out. What’s this place all about?
When the Centre Pompidou opened in 1977, it was a radical (and controversial) design for a museum—all industrial pipes and open glass views of Paris. Forty-plus years later, it's the undisputed grande dame of Paris's contemporary art world.

Ye shall know them by their permanent collection: How was it?
The collection is massive, with over 100,000 pieces ranging from 1905 to the present. You'll find everything from masterworks by Picasso to modern video installations.

But also by their new shoes. How were the exhibits?
The seasonal exhibits are generally of the highest quality; the 40th-anniversary lineup in 2017 included Magritte, Walker Evans, David Hockney, and Cy Twombly. The high ceilings and expansive salons let a typically crowded space feel open and airy.

What did you make of the crowd?
The museum gets millions of visitors a year, and lines for major exhibitions can circle around the block. The permanent collections are usually quieter.

On the practical tip, how were facilities?
The elevators are easy to get to and come frequently. They also offer excellent views of the city as you near the top.

Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it?
There are multiple gift shops scattered throughout the museum, as each special exhibition tends to have a dedicated one with products curated around its artist or theme. The main gift shop on the ground floor is worth a stop as well.

Is the café worth a stop, or should we just plan on going elsewhere?
Located in the heart of the Marais, a restaurant at the Centre Pompidou would have to be pretty special to compete against all the excellent neighboring options. And Georges delivers—come for the smart, international menu and panoramic views over Paris (especially appealing at night, when the Eiffel Tower twinkles with light).

Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged?
You could see one of the special exhibitions in an hour, but the museum is a multi-floor affair, so you could fill a half day or more. If you only have time for a quick visit, try the Atelier Brancusi instead. Housed in its own building outside the main one, the Atelier Brancusi recreates the Zen-like work space of the famous sculptor, with plenty of his best pieces on display.