Review: The Rocks

Tell me: What’s this place all about?
Sydney’s oldest colonial neighborhood, the Rocks is a warren of atmospheric sandstone warehouses, quiet courtyards, and cobbled alleys on the western side of Circular Quay. Enjoy spectacular views of Sydney Harbour Bridge looming over this historic district, and Sydney Opera House opposite. The birthplace of modern Sydney, this was where the First Fleet of British colonists and convicts stepped ashore in 1788. The oldest remaining building is 1816-founded Cadmans Cottage, beside the Museum of Contemporary Art (MCA), a handy starting point for a walk around the area’s 19th-century buildings, heritage pubs, cafes, shops, and galleries.

What’s it like being there?
You’ll be transported back in time wandering the Rocks’s shady backstreets, including skinny Nurses Walk and Suez Canal (between Harrington and George streets), once frequented by local gangs.

Is there a guide involved?
The Rocks Walking Tours offers 90-minute guided strolls, departing daily at 10.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. from Shop 5 Clocktower Square, at the corner of Argyle and Harrington streets. Informed guides share tales of the quarter’s convict and working-class roots, the plague, Bridge construction, and gentrification.

Who comes here?
Tourists throng the Rocks, including escapees from the cruise ships that moor at the Overseas Passenger Terminal here. Locals also swing by for art shows at the MCA, to graze at food stalls and restaurants, and to unwind in Sydney’s oldest pubs, including Fortune of War, The Australian Hotel, The Hero of Waterloo and The Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel. Reach the latter two via dramatic convict-hewn Argyle Cut rock tunnel. The rooftop bar at the Glenmore pub has stellar views.

Did it meet expectations?
Even a short visit to the Rocks will give you a feel for Sydney's past. For more insights, check out The Rocks Discovery Museum, in a restored 1850s warehouse. At weekends the Rocks Markets animate Jack Mundey Place, Playfair and George streets, with Friday food markets.

What, or who, do you think it’s best for?
On a budget? I’m Free Tours set off at 6 p.m. on select days from Cadmans Cottage. The Rocks is especially illuminating during Vivid Sydney festival, with projections at the MCA and laneway light art.