Mostar: The underrated, culture-rich city to add to your bucket list

There’s something more alluring about a place that isn’t straightforward to reach. Bosnia and Herzegovina has been cut off from the rest of the European rail network since the breakup of Yugoslavia. Mostar Airport has also been out of action since the mid-1990s. And so, this adventure begins at Split Bus Station in neighbouring Croatia. Discomfort from the well-worn seats aside, there are worse journeys. We trundle along the Adriatic coastal highway, passing fishing villages and emerald islets ringed by white beaches, before retreating into the Croatian mountains. Acres of virgin pine forests surround us, this landscape disturbed only by clusters of terracotta roofs. Minarets begin swaying from the hilltops, the telltale sign that we’ve left Croatia behind.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is home to one of Europe’s few remaining Indigenous Muslim populations, who were introduced to Islam by the Ottomans some 500 years ago. Around half of today’s population is Muslim. The country has been occupied by the Austro-Hungarians and the Nazis since – not to mention the various military forces during the last conflict. But it’s the Ottoman relics, namely Stari Most (the old bridge) and the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, which captivate visitors (not to take away from Mimar Sinan and his proteges, but there wasn’t much competition from the Yugoslav architects).

Mostar is very compact, meaning you can tick off many of its key attractions on foot in one day: Stari Most, Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, the Museum of War and Genocide, the bazaar, and Kajtaz House, to name a few. But Mostar doesn’t need to be rushed. On the contrary, it’s a city built on a laidback Mediterranean lifestyle where people work to live, and coffee breaks are a ritual which lasts at least 45 minutes. Mostar is also an excellent base for exploring the region’s vineyards, waterfalls, mountain trails and other Ottoman settlements. Hotels and restaurants are much cheaper than in Croatia, so staying a while makes financial sense, too. I sit smugly at a bar terrace, knowing I’m here to stay and can afford to spend an hour or two nursing a cold tipple while the day trip visitors race to get their Instagram photos. It’s great business for the divers who earn a living from tourists paying them to plunge into the icy Neretva River below (despite summer highs of 45℃ in Mostar, the water rarely peaks above 7℃).

The Neretva appears far tamer from the top of Koski Mehmed’s minaret. It silently slithers through the city like a blue viper, and the views remain uninterrupted until your eyes meet the Dinaric Alps. My advice? Attempt this sweaty clamber after 4pm when it’s cooler and quieter.

Still nursing that drink, I watch the divers warm up their audience. I take my respite on the Terasa bar terrace, which has the best seat (arguably, the best Aperol Spritz) in town. One can spend hours people-watching or simply enjoying the view Stari Most bookends to the left and Koski Mehmed to the right. Shortly after taking my seat, the afternoon adhan (call to prayer) floods the valley. It’s truly mesmerising. Church bells chime in, a reminder of the multiple faiths practised in Mostar. Within my vicinity is the Millenium Cross standing proud, (or to some, lording over the city) from the brow of Hum Hill, synagogues, the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral, and the Mostar Peace Bell Tower topping the Croatian church. Depending on who you ask, they’re either competing or coexisting.

And then another calling, this one far less divine: my empty stomach. The smell of chargrilled meat had been teasing me all day, so I dawdle across the bridge to appease my appetite at Šadrvan with some traditional Bosnian food. My waiter, dressed in a traditional Ottoman costume, lifts the dome from my ‘national dish’, unveiling a feast fit for a sultan: a platter piled high with beautifully slow-cooked meat, cevapi (small oblong mince meat kebabs), dolma (stuffed vegetables), rice, warm somun (Bosnian pita), mashed potato and cold ajvar (a Balkan pepper sauce). I’ll admit, it defeated me. If there’s one thing you should bring to Bosnia and Herzegovina, it’s your appetite.

Where to eat and drink in Mostar

Bosnian cuisine is very similar to Turkish food, which shares Ottoman influences. But it also embraces a couple of Austro-Hungarian dishes, namely Schnitzel. Wherever you dine in Mostar, portions are big, and prices are small, you have been warned.

Šadrvan

Enjoy a variety of traditional Bosnian meat and fish dishes, Austrian Schnitzel and international dishes served by costumed waiters. Once you’ve settled your bill, walk down the steps to see Stari Most up close or stroll through the bazaar with an ice cream (if you have room).

Address: Restaurant Šadrvan, Jusovina 11, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Divan

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a rising star on the international wine stage. At Divan, you can quaff a glass of Žilavka (white) or Vranac (red) with a hearty local dish.

Address: Restaurant Divan, Onešćukova bb, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Website: restorandivan.com

Terasa

Terasa is part of the AliBaba Group, a family-owned business including a bar, cafe, apartment and nightclub in the old town. Head up there in the day for a refreshing drink and vantage points over the old town. Come the evening, move below ground to their cave bar for live music and cocktails.

Address: Terasa, 8RQ8+27F, Kujundžiluk, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

The best apartments and hotels in Mostar

From living museums to boutique hotels, Mostar isn’t short of affordable stays. Four-star hotels in the heart of the old town average at less than £100 per night in peak season, while simpler establishments could set you back less than £50 per night.

Hotel Restoran Kriva Cuprija

This boutique hotel owes its name to the bridge it perches on - Kriva Cuprija, meaning ‘crooked bridge’. You’ll find crisp, white beds in air-conditioned rooms with oriental accents and staff who can’t do enough for you. The hotel’s celebrity visitors include the Princess of Liechtenstein and the Red Bull diving team. As a guest, you have priority booking at its popular restaurant, which serves Sač, a traditional dish slow-roasted under a ceramic or metal dome.

Address: Kriva Cuprija Hotel, BA BA, Onešćukova 23, 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Muslibegović House

Snooze in Ottoman opulence inside this living museum, originally the home of the prestigious Muslibegović family in the 18th century. Each of the 12 guest rooms has been carefully furnished around their original Islamic interior (with some additional mod cons for comfort). All guests are given a free guided tour of the museum upon arrival – by a member of the Muslibegović family, if you’re lucky.

Address: Muslibegovic House, Osmana Džikića 41, Mostar 88000, Bosnia & Herzegovina

AliBaba Apartment

Enjoy all the old town has to offer before a nightcap at Terasa and literally rolling into bed - this modern apartment for two is just behind the terrace. The AliBaba nightclub is just across the road if you're feeling more energetic. Amenities include kitchen facilities, a TV, air conditioning and a car park. It’s surprisingly soundproof considering its proximity to the nightclub, too.

Address: AliBaba Apartment, Stari most, 88000 Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Day trips from Mostar

Mostar, Blagaj, Pocitelj, and Kravice Waterfalls

Operated by local tour company Mostar Travel, your day begins at the Fortica viewing platform, where your guide will tell you about the conflict and point out the old front lines surrounding Mostar before heading to the enchanting village of Blagaj to see the Dervish house clinging to the cliff. Climb to the ancient fortress in Pocitelj before an afternoon dip in the Kravica Waterfalls, Herzegovina’s answer to Niagara Falls.

Wine tours

Herzegovina’s Mediterranean climate makes it ideal for wine production. On this ToursByLocals tour, Mostar resident Amna will take you to some of the region’s ancient vineyards, olive groves and pomegranate plantations, where you can sample the produce before rounding off with lunch in Blagaj.