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Bathing suit shopping is about so much more than what catches your eye. You also have want the best cuts and support for your bust. And it's not just about size, but also shape, especially when you're shopping for bikinis. We talked to swimwear experts about the best options for all bust types for the beach, pool, or wherever your summer adventures might take you.
For Shoppers With a Large Chest
Generally, the best fit is…
Underwire, which delivers extra support. "Your bikini should be sized by your cup size, which is how most women buy a bra. The actual underwire keeps you in place and the foam pad gives you shape," explains J.Crew's swim designer Amy Romanowsky.
Look for straps that are supportive and comfortable.
Romanowsky recommends straps that cross in the back. "They keep the pressure off your neck and allow for a little less coverage in front," she says. "A halter is great because it lifts you, but the common complaint is that the ties at the neck start to hurt after a while."
Experiment with other styles too.
"You can definitely make other styles work!" Bikyni founder Jude Al-Khalil tells us. "Our bandeau has removable pads and neck ties, so you can add support as you want. Look for styles with side boning that keeps things in place." Rather than picking a tube style, shop for one with a thick tie in the back so you can tie it as tightly as feels comfortable. Plenty of styles have built-in underwire so you'll be supported, even sans straps.
For Shoppers With a Small Chest
Generally, the best fit is...
Romanowsky and Al-Khalil both like the French bikini top for smaller busts, since it makes for a clean, simple line and opens up the neckline. But they agree you can wear almost anything. Red Carter, designer of the eponymous swim label recommends padded triangle tops: "The less fabric, the better for enhancing the curves."
If you want to make your chest look bigger...
Severely padded tops can look fake, our experts said. To add size to your bustline without over-the-top push-ups, look for tops that have something extra going on. Think ruffles, tiered fabric, cleavage, or 3-D florals that all add volume in a playful, trendy way.
Underwire tops aren't totally off the table.
"Even though we think of the underwire as a more supportive style for bigger busts, it can work for small-breasted women as well. Look for one with soft cups that will conform to your body—they'll actually give you a little boost," Al-Khalil says.
And about string bikinis...
According to Al-Khalil, shoppers "who have firm small to midsize breasts will look best in a triangle top, given the nature of it being less supportive."
For Everything In Between
The one bikini style that fits most...
A molded-cup halter "is complementary to all, and the adjustable neck straps let you add the lift that you want," Al-Khalil says. Unlike string bikinis, where the triangles are able to shift around, this retro-inspired shape has its cups in place—exactly where the designer intended them. "There's a small gap between them that creates a super-flattering look," says Al-Khalil.
Don't ignore side coverage.
"It's the area that might be the unsung hero of cleavage and is worth searching for in a suit," says J.Crew's Romanowsky. "An underwire that ends abruptly at the side of your torso, rather than curving up toward the armpit, will keep breasts up but not together." It's especially important if your breasts are spaced far apart, says Carter. If that describes your shape, try a halter with extended side coverage (the extra fabric will help to push your breasts toward the center of your chest) or an underwire in a classic shape. "It supports and brings things together," Carter says.
Adjustability is key.
"Always look for adjustable straps, no matter what shape the suit is. Adjustability around the bra and extension of the straps is what helps provide versatility to get a proper fit," Carter says.
Even if your lying around and not swimming, you still need support.
Beach, book, done. If that's all you'll use a swimsuit for (and amen to that), Carter suggests an underwire with removable straps: "It'll keep all of your assets front and center, not in your armpits when lying down." Romanowsky also recommends any top with pads: "They're constructed to give you shape and definitely still do the job when lying down."
When in doubt, ask a pro for help.
Breasts come in different shapes, not just sizes. "Your body shape definitely affects the shape that's best for swimwear. For instance, a triangle top doesn't do teardrop shapes justice," Carter says. "Don't be afraid to head to a speciality store and ask the staff for suggestions." Large swim retailers will have the selection and expertise to help, and many lingerie and bra shops also stock swimsuits in spring and summer.
