Battle-scarred and rebuilt, the Croatian town on its way back – an expert guide to Vukovar

What can I do with a half a day? 

Although it lays dubious claim to being the only completely devastated European town since World War Two, Vukovar has been steadily rebuilt and today has more than enough to keep the visitor busy for a day or more. The baroque city centre, mostly restored, is pleasant to wander around, thanks to sights like the Franciscan Monastery, which hosts the church of St. Phillip and Jacob, and the pretty Adica Park.

A visit to the baroque Eltz Castle, which hosts the Vukovar Municipal Museum, is a must; the museum’s archaeological artifacts span Paleolithic times as well as the war era, and also presents occasional art and history exhibitions.

War damage in the shape of bullet holes (and worse) in buildings is still very obvious throughout most of the city, not least in the looming, distinctive and war-damaged Vukovar water tower, intentionally left as a reminder of the destruction. Many of the other sights relate inevitably to the war, such as the basement of the Vukovar hospital, which was used during the siege and is now home to a War Museum that recounts some of the horrors that took place here (including the Ovčara massacre), and offers a multimedia history of the siege of Vukovar.

The so-called Tank Graveyard Street uses an actual tank as a memorial to the brave local defense against a major Serbian onslaught, and a special route called the Vukovar Nocturne ties this and more sites together, including the Ovčara mass grave and the Memorial Home, located in a hangar where the victims spent their final moments.

More time

The Vucedol Culture Museum, which lies a few miles along the river, can be reached by taxi or bicycle (no buses go here), and is a fascinating place. Located on a former archaeological site and surrounded by vineyards, the area was first inhabited around 6,000 B.C. but the exhibition focuses on the Vučedol Culture (3,000 – 2,500 B.C.). Throughout 19 rooms, visitors can get to learn about themes like the arrival of the Indo-Europeans, handicrafts, religion, burial rituals and more. If you still have time on your hands, take a trip on one of the local boats or the Vukovar Waterbus, or relax on the island of Ada located directly opposite the town centre.

Eat and drink 

The local cuisine is centred mainly around freshly caught fish and pork, especially smoked versions of the latter like šunka (smoked ham) and kulen (sausage). Spicy fish soup is common here, as is smoked catfish, carp, and meat stews like čobanac and paprikaš. Indeed, red paprika is very commonly used, and makes many dishes very spicy; be sure to ask your waiter to tone it down if you don’t like it hot. Sweet tooths can try the poderane gaće (“torn underpants”), a pancake-like dough sweetened with sugar or honey. Look out too for local wines, honey and Vukovarsko pivo (beer).

Don’t leave Vukovar without…

The Vucedol dove, a ritual vessel connected to the Vucedol culture that stems from 2800 and 2500 BC. It has become a symbol of Vukovar and a recognizable souvenir. Models of the Vukovar water tower can also be found in local shops as well as shops at museums such as the one at Castle Eltz.

Need to know

Best time to go

The cruise ships dock in Vukovar between the end of March and mid-November, which is when the weather is at its best. The crowds never really get too busy, though those who don’t like too much sunshine might plump for spring or autumn.

Closures   

Vukovar Municipal Museum and Vucedol Culture Museum are closed on Mondays. Shops are open from Monday to Saturday and some tourist shops are also open on Sunday.