What’s going for it? I like the sound of the Ladies of Llangollen. In the late 18th century, these two aristocratic Irish ladies, after several attempts (including one dressed as men), escaped on a boat for Britain, hunting, though they were only young, for “a life of sweet and delicious retirement” dedicated to “friendship, celibacy and the knitting of stockings”, wrote Sir Walter Scott. Like some Romantic-era Thelma & Louise, the pair hit the road and got as far as Llangollen, where they put down roots in a marvellous gothic fantasy house, Plas Newydd, and set about their life together stocking-knitting for 50 years. “The Ladies” scandalised society, but they cared not a jot. I like to think their spirit has seeped into the soil. Llangollen remains a cultured freewheeling, cosmopolitan kind of place for one so small, tucked down a Welsh valley, a spot that still attracts hordes to express their own kind of freedom, whether that be drooling over its crags and ruined castles, dancing a jig to Ladysmith Black Mambazo in the International Eisteddfod, or frantic stocking-knitting. In Llangollen, anything goes.
The case against It can get a bit Olde Fudge Shoppe. In summer, its hugger-mugger streets resemble Glastonbury-meets-Antiques-Roadshow. Traffic: deep valley roads are your only escape.
Well connected? Trains: the nearest station is at Ruabon, a 15-minute drive away, where hourly trains run north to Wrexham (6 mins) and Chester (26 mins) and south to Shrewsbury (32 mins). Driving: to Wrexham in 25 mins, Chester in 40 mins, Shrewsbury in 45, the M6 in an hour, and the coast at Barmouth 70 mins. Buses head to Ruabon, Wrexham and Chester.
Schools Primaries: Y Gwernant is “good”, says Estyn, and at Bryn Collen, “good features” mostly “outweigh shortcomings”. Secondaries: Dinas Brân is “good”.
Hang out at… The Corn Mill pub, beautifully restored, with a waterwheel and a terrace over the river Dee: made for summer evenings.
Where to buy The old centre is pretty, but there’s not much of it. The Victorian boom brought villas to roads such as Abbey Road or Birch Hill. Posher suburbans hang up the valleyside for views; try Grange Road, Fron Bache or Tyn Dwr Road. Detacheds, £190,000-£700,000. Semis, £150,000-£320,000. Town houses, £180,000-£300,000. Cottages and terraces, £100,000-£180,000. Little to rent: a three-bed house might be £600pcm.
Bargain of the week Two-bedroom terrace with terrific views of the town, £134,000.
From the streets
Anthea Cooper “Lots of great independent shops, an inclusive community, access to the hills without a car, and well situated for Chester, Manchester, Liverpool. The Bryntysilio outdoor adventure centre is not to be missed – great for kids.”
Simon Collinge “There’s an excellent community in Llangollen – dozens of clubs and societies.”
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