How to Grow and Care for Red Tip Photinia

Red tip photinia, also known as Fraser photinia, is a broadleaf hybrid shrub that gets its name from the striking red color of its young leaves. Red tip photinia thrives in full sun, though it can handle partial shade, and in alkaline, well-draining soil. In fact, this shrub is even fairly drought-tolerant.

When growing red tip photinia, consider that it's toxic to horses.

Red Tip Photinia Care

Red tip photinia is not particularly difficult to grow, especially if you're located in USDA hardiness zones 7 or 8. Here are the main care requirements for growing a red tip photinia:

• Choose a full-sun location, ideally getting at least six hours of sunlight.
• Prepare well-draining soil, preferably on the alkaline side.
• Let the soil dry out before watering; water at the base, not overhead.
• Prune at least annually to thin growth and improve airflow.
• Fertilize lightly in spring if the soil lacks nutrients.

Light

Red tip photinia has a broad tolerance range for sunlight exposure. It can even tolerate full shade, though this will limit flowering. In hot climates, this shrub does best when it gets partial shade—especially protection from the hot afternoon sun. In cooler climate zones, it prefers full sun. It is best planted in north- or east-facing locations.

Soil

Red tip photinia prefers loamy, well-drained soil in a planting site with good air movement. Heavy clay soils should be amended with 50 percent compost before planting. The shrub is happiest in alkaline soil.

Water

Once established, red tip photinia has a good tolerance for short periods of drought and will thrive with an alternate-week watering schedule. It will do well with about one inch of water per week, rainfall, and irrigation combined, especially in the first two years. Water the plant once a week at its base during dry periods, and avoid getting the leaves wet.

Temperature and Humidity

Red tip photinia flourishes in climate conditions across USDA growing zones 7 to 8, provided it gets good airflow to prevent fungal disease. It does not do well in very wet, humid environments. It can survive in zone 6 when planted in a location that is sheltered from harsh winds yet has generally good air circulation around the shrub.

Fertilizer

Red tip photinia usually does not require fertilizing unless your soil is very poor. When feeding is needed (based on a soil test), use a slow-release organic fertilizer in the early spring as new growth begins.

Types of Red Tip Photinia

Photinia is derived from the Greek word "photeinos," which means shiny, aptly describing the young plant's leaves. Some of the most popular varieties of red tip photinia include:

• Photinia x fraseri' Red Robin': Red Robin is the most commonly planted cultivar. It grows 9 to 12 feet tall with a similar spread. It's a somewhat compact cultivar that is easy to tame for use in hedges.
• Photinia × fraseri' Little Red Robin': This plant is similar to Red Robin though much smaller, with a height and spread of only 2 to 3 feet.
• Photinia × fraseri' Pink Marble': Pink Marble is a newer cultivar, featuring rose pink young leaves with variegated white margins. It grows 7 to 14 feet tall and 6 to 10 feet wide.

Pruning

Thin your shrub each year in the winter by removing some stems to the ground to improve air circulation. This will ensure light can hit all parts of the plant. To train this plant to grow as a tree, choose a central leader and prune away competing shoots. This will gradually transform the plant into a more tree-like shape.

Propagating Red Tip Photinia

Red tip photinia is a hybrid plant that does not "come true" if its seeds are planted. Thus, propagation is always through stem cuttings.

Like many woody shrubs, red tip photinia can be propagated by taking semi-hardwood stem cuttings to root and plant in pots in mid- to late summer. However, cuttings can be taken anytime before frost arrives. Here's how to do it:

1. Cut a 3- to 4-inch stem that includes three growth nodes. Use a sharp knife instead of shears since shears pinch the stem, making it more challenging to take up water.
   
2. Remove the bottom leaves. The stem only needs two leaves at the top.
3. Plant the cut end down into a pot of moistened potting mix. Cover the pot loosely with a clear plastic bag, giving it a mock greenhouse environment to encourage rooting.
4. Place the pot in a well-lit, warm spot indoors.
5. Within weeks, the cuttings will grow roots.
6. Plant it outdoors in the spring, gradually acclimating it to outside weather conditions over a few weeks and after the threat of frost has passed.
   

Overwintering

In the northern end of its hardiness range, protect this plant against winter cold. Gardeners in zone 7 should thickly cover the root crown with a layer of dry mulch. Dry mulch can include leaves, straw, or brushwood. Wrap the individual shoots in burlap, mainly to protect the flowering buds. These safeguards are not necessary for warmer zones.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Red tip photinia is susceptible to fungal diseases when conditions are wet and humid. E. maculatum fungus, leaf spot, is a particular threat and is so severe that the plant's landscape use is gradually disappearing in the South. This disease appears as red spots across the leaf surface. If it is not controlled, it can overtake the plant and cause many leaves to drop, sometimes killing the plant.

You can help affected plants recover by keeping the leaves dry and removing diseased foliage. Adding a layer of mulch also benefits the plant. Make sure to remove all diseased leaves and branches from the growing area. You can also apply a systemic fungicide several times in the early spring through the rainy season. Thoroughly treat all leaf and twig surfaces.

Powdery mildew and fireblight are also potential problems. And, root rot is possible, if the soil is too wet. You also might see leaf scorch, crown gall, and gray mold.

Insects that you might find on this shrub include caterpillars, European fruit-tip moths, mites, and scale.

How to Get Red Tip Photinia to Bloom

In its perennial regions, red tip photinia should bloom without issue, especially if the plant is getting enough sunlight.

Bloom Months

Red tip photinia is a spring bloomer, typically producing flowers in April or May.

How Long Does Red Tip Photinia Bloom?

Flowers on red tip photinia usually last about two to three weeks, forming red berries in summer that can last through winter.

What Do Red Tip Photinia Flowers Look and Smell Like?

Red tip photinia produces clusters of tiny white or cream-colored, delicate flowers that are pretty to look at but smell unpleasant, similar to a chlorine or ammonia smell. The flowers nearly cover the foliage at the peak of its bloom.

If the flowers are left to bloom, they give way to small red pome fruit or berries that can remain through winter and into the following spring. The berries are a food source for birds.

How to Encourage More Blooms

Flowers are produced on new growth. Ensure the plant gets ample sun and its new buds are protected in the winter. Regular pruning in the winter and fertilizing twice a year will encourage consistent blooming.

Deadheading Red Tip Photinia Flowers

Deadhead red tip photinia will discourage the production of red berries and can help eliminate the unpleasant smell of the flowers, if desired. Cutting back the stems also spurs more new red leaf production.

Common Problems With Red Tip Photinia

Red tip photinia's serious fungal problems are its main concern, but it still experiences some smaller issues.

Leaves Aren't Red

Two conditions can prevent this shrub from displaying its beautiful red leaves in the spring: not enough sun and cold spring weather that nips the leaf buds. Red tip photinia requires both enough sun and a sheltered location to thrive.

Unpleasant Smell

The flowers on red tip photinia are notorious for their unpleasant odor. To prevent flowering, do rigorous spring pruning, which will stimulate the growth of the beautiful leaves while removing the flower buds.

Shrub Is Too Sparse

Without regular pruning, a red tip photinia can grow quite tall and leggy at the expense of the dense foliage that most people desire. Hard renewal pruning, followed by annual shortening of all stems by a full one-third of their length, will restore a neglected shrub to its best appearance.