From modern, momentous Buda on the Danube’s west bank to historic, higgledy-piggledy Pest facing east, Hungary’s capital is a city of two clear-cut halves. It’s said that Buda is the calmer of the two, with Pest the lifeblood of the city. Revel in both, savouring thermal springs, museums, a castle district and extraordinary caves, before crossing the river for buzzing restaurants, nightlife and the city’s symbolic ruin pubs.
So much of the appeal of Budapest lies in simply wandering and discovering on your own: it’s not a one-size-fits-all kind of place. Take a stroll across the twinkly Széchenyi Chain Bridge at night; ride the funicular to the crenellated parapet of Buda Castle; snap photos of the magnificent St Stephen’s Basilica; or attend a festival on Hajógyári Island.
The busiest months to visit are June to August when the city fills up with backpackers and city breakers. In late autumn Budapest becomes wonderfully festive, but, whenever you travel, it’s a wonder year-round — give yourself at least three to four days to discover it all.
This article contains links from which we may earn revenue. These links are signposted with an asterisk. More information here.
What to do
If only every day could begin at the gloriously decadent Széchenyi Thermal Baths* near Communist-era Heroes’ Square. The largest medicinal baths in Europe are popular for a reason — there’s no better introduction to Hungarian life than a soak in its labyrinth of neo-baroque pools. It’s also teeming with personalities, and after dipping in and out of calcium and magnesium-infused tubs, you might get lured into a chess game by a pool’s edge. Afterwards, cross City Park to see the Disney-esque Vajdahunyad Castle.
Advertisement
The stirring architectural highs of Buda come next, showing off the city’s best historic sights. Devote a full day to see Castle Hill, the Hungarian National Gallery, the turrets of Fisherman’s Bastion, medieval Matthias Church, and Gellért Hill, rising above the Danube. From there, it’s only a quick stroll across the river to the wedding-cakey Hungarian parliament building.
When evening beckons it soon becomes clear that Budapest is at its best when night falls. Start yours on the deck of a river cruiser with a sail along the Danube* — there are plenty of operators offering everything from romantic, candlelit affairs to late-night party boats.
Where to stay
In recent years, Budapest’s property developers have opened their arms to almost every luxury hotelier; expect offerings from Hyatt, Anantara, Marriott and Aria, each with five-star stays for less than you might think.
Unsurprisingly, many of the big hitters are in Downtown, with the most popular having rooftop terraces for impressive sweeps of parliament, the opera house and all that faded baroque glory. Addresses such as the Ritz-Carlton* and Four Seasons*, near the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, have been converted from art nouveau masterpieces to the country’s swankiest spots — and most have an in-house spa.
The smart place to bed down if you’re after long lie-ins and late nights is District VII, or the former Jewish Quarter, just east of Downtown. Here the crowds shuttle from hostels and boutique hotels to street cafés and street art-splashed bars and you’ll find a cluster of accommodation options around Rumbach Street Synagogue.
Food and drink
Advertisement
Not every visitor falls immediately for the Budapest food and drink experience — Magyar cuisine tends to be heavy on the paprika. However, it’s one of the cheapest capitals in Europe, and everything from national staples (goulash, kolbász sausage, paprika chicken) to craft burgers and cocktails is easy on your wallet. You’ll hear very few people grumbling about paying £1 for a pint of local beer.
The alleys funneling off main pedestrian thoroughfare Váci Utca offer a vision of Hungary’s culinary present, and the Jewish Quarter farther afield is where you can find a window into the past — it’s the spiritual home of terrace cafés and historic dining rooms. In the middle of this is the palatial New York Café, easily one of Europe’s most elegant settings for cake. It opened in 1894 and remains adorned with frescoes, gilded mirrors and stuccoed angels.
Don’t forget palinka — Hungary’s fruit-flavoured schnapps. Blow off steam at the city’s ruin bars, social housing relics of the Cold War era rebooted as Alice in Wonderland-style drinking dens. Best enjoyed well past bedtime, standout bars are Mazel Tov and Szimpla Kert in the ever-trendy Jewish Quarter — the latter is a warren-like place brimming with mismatched bric-a-brac. Otherwise, take your pick from places hunkered on Gozsdu Passage.
Don’t miss
It seems right that in a city of this size there is plenty not in the guide book. Even if you’re short on time, the world’s longest and fastest train run by children is one of Budapest’s little-known marvels. Train Line 7 tootles along nearly 12km of tracks from its terminus at Hűvösvölgy and winds through the Buda Hills offering Danube views with distractions. You’ll struggle to find a more unusual journey using public transport.
Meanwhile, other must-sees when visiting Budapest are the Hungarian State Opera House and the sucker-punching House of Terror* — a testament to the dark story of the country’s fascist and communist regimes over the past century. The museum is equal parts fascinating and horrifying, but be warned: you’ll need a strong nerve for stories of interrogation, torture and bloody murder.
Advertisement
For something a little easier on the stomach, Central Market Hall by Liberty Bridge is the buzziest place to pick up a souvenir. Alongside fruit and veg, vendors tout salamis, pickles, cinnamon-topped chimney cakes, world-class Tokaj wines, and paper wraps of Hungarian paprika. All for a few pounds, of course.
Finally, the historic Veli Bej Bath in Hotel Csaszar* Budapest is a long-standing member of city-insider travel guides: the secret is it’s smaller than the more famous thermal baths and not sardine-tin packed with tourists.
Know before you go
The Hungarian forint is the official currency. As for when to visit, May and September are great bets, with ideal weather and more room to breathe than in peak summer. The much-touted Sziget Festival, held for a week every August on the Danube’s so-called “island of freedom”, is the Glastonbury of Eastern Europe.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Budapest but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Tui* and British Airways*. These are the best tours of Budapest from our trusted partners*
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.