Luxor or Aswan - which Egyptian city should you visit?
Egypt needs no introduction!
Millions of tourists flock to the country every year to see the Pyramids of Giza, and to ride a camel in some mythical locations across the ancient lands.
However, how many of you head south down the Nile?
Luxor and Aswan are two of Egypt’s most popular cities which sit on the bank of the Nile, both offering a different ambiance for your trip. The chaos of Luxor, or the tranquillity of Aswan, whichever city you decide to visit, you are going to be in for a historical and cultural journey into the heart of civilizations, dating back thousands of years.
I learnt so many interesting facts from Ancient Egypt by socialising with the locals.
I visited both cities on my solo Egyptian trip in September 2023, and got to know the vibe of both cities, so this blog will offer you all the information you need about Luxor and Aswan, so you can find out the best reasons to visit Egypt, and plan your perfect getaway.
Exploring the Karnak Temple in Luxor.
A brief introduction into the two cities.
One thing that both Luxor and Aswan have in common is buckets full of history.
Most ancient temples in Egypt are located in the two cities along the Nile, which is one of the reasons behind the popularity of the two places.
Luxor, which was previously named ‘Thebes’, is bigger and has a higher population than Aswan. It is often referred to as the worlds’ greatest open air museum, which blends perfectly with the modern aspects of the city to offer tourists a unique vibe of new vs old.
Aswan is a southern city in Egypt which has historical significance and natural beauty in equal measure, with a touch of Nubian delight, to add some vibrancy and colour to the undertone of the city. You are guaranteed to venture onto the Nile as many of the highlights of the city are located on islands on the cataract of the Nile.
The River Nile.
The River Nile is the centrepiece of many of the Egyptian cities, as tourists flock to sail on the world’s largest river, and immerse in the natural beauty of the historic nation.
As you wander down the promenade at Luxor it is fascinating observing the mixture of sailing boats and feluccas contrasting with the grand cruise ships.
A felucca ride with a meal is one of the best ways to experience the Nile, especially at sunset time!
The Egyptian flag stands proud infront of the River Nile in Luxor.
I had several experiences sailing on the Nile in Aswan with mixed outcomes.
My accommodation in Aswan was on Elephantine Island which is across from mainland Aswan, therefore, required a taxi boat each time I ventured from island to the other.
I negotiated a price for a felucca ride across but got overcharged, and then the local refused to pay my change claiming he didn’t have any change on him. This tainted my first experience on the River Nile.
However, I had no other issues when getting the cheap taxi boat across to the island several times a day, furthermore, I booked a tour to the Nubian Village, and Temple of Philae and the service was impeccable from the locals boat sailors.
Riding on a felucca boat on the River Nile in Aswan.
Ancient Landmarks in Luxor and Aswan.
Now for a very important section, the landmarks in both cities!
This one is easy, Luxor wins every time when it comes to ancient landmarks. It is truly abundant with Temples, Necropolis’, and museums, all offering different glimpses back in time.
Aswan is a good contender still though, especially when you consider Abu Simbel, one of Egypt’s greatest wonders, is only a few hours away from the southern city.
Posing infront of the most famous tomb of them all in Luxor.
Luxor.
Where do I start with Luxor?
It has to be with the Valley of the Kings, and more specifically the tomb of King Tut. The famous pharaoh’s tomb is one of the very few that you will find in Egypt with the original mummy on display.
I had previously visited some tombs at Saqqara, but it was a completely different experience visiting such a famous person’s final resting place.
This is a bucket list activity for anyone who studied about the young ruler at school as I did.
The historical highlights in Luxor are spread over the East Bank and West Bank of the River Nile, both of which are filled with enough archaeological sites to fill a full day.
The famous West Bank landmarks that should be on your Luxor itinerary are:
Valley of the Kings.
Along with King Tut, you will also find the tombs of famous rulers Ramses VI, Horemheb, and Seti II. In total, there are around 65 tombs as the archaeological site was used as a royal cemetery for over 500 years. Visiting the 3 tombs included with your main ticket, along with King Tut’s, and Seti II will give you the perfect trip to the famous burial ground.
Temple of Hatshepsut.
This multi-floor temple is unique, as it is carved into the side of the cliff. It was dedicated to Queen Hatsheput and offers a great insight into ancient times with its remains.
Medinet Habu Temple.
Medinet Habu is an underrated temple on the West Bank as it is not on the main tourist route however, its hieroglyphics are awesome. This was my favourite temple for the art, as it was all really colourful.
Valley of the Queens.
Similar to the Valley of the Kings, this is an ancient royal cemetery, but dedicated to many queens and princesses, among other royal children. Although there are approximately 90 tombs on site, only a few are open to visitors. The famous tomb of Queen Nefertiti, the royal wife of Pharaoh Ramses II, makes it a worthwhile trip.
This site has two massive statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III standing guard over the ruins of his mortuary temple, thus, offers some historical significance. It is on the way to the main West Bank sites and free of charge, so should be a must on your daily itinerary.
The Colossi of Memnon on the West Bank of Luxor.
These East Bank landmarks are closer to the centre of Luxor and can be reached on foot:
Karnak Temple.
Karnak is one of the most iconic temples in the world, and makes for a great Egyptian photo spot. A highlight for visitors are the enormous columns which stand tall in the Great Hypostyle Hall, which was one of the largest areas of the temple complex. The overall Karnak site was developed over 1000 years, with multiple generations of pharaohs having an influence on its design.
Luxor Temple.
Another East Bank treasure is the Luxor Temple, which sits on the banks of the Nile. The ancient monument is considered to be one of the best preserved from all of Ancient Egypt, along with being touted as the worlds’ largest outdoor museum.
The Luxor Museum and Museum of Mummification are also both located on the East Bank of Luxor, both of which I found to be more neatly organised than the Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square in Cairo.
The Temple of Philae in Aswan.
Aswan.
The ancient monuments in Aswan are spread across the mainland and the different islands which offers a unique experience delving into Ancient Egypt.
Temple of Philae.
This famous Temple sits on an island offering an iconic picturesque setting, especially when approaching it on the River Nile. The Temple dates back thousands of years and has had a turbulent history, from ancient times up until recently, when the Temple had to be relocated due to flooding risk as a result of the High Dam construction.
Museum of Nubia.
The Nubia Museum experience takes you on a journey through the ages and all the way to the beginning of Nubian life in Egypt. The artefacts and statues are laid out in chronological order in an air conditioned immaculate building. This offers you a nice escape from the midday heat in the summertime.
Unfinished Obeklisk.
The unfinished Obelsik gives insight into the methods of ancient stone-masonry as this monument was abandoned half way through construction thousands of years ago, and left in the quarries of Aswan. This is a very important archaeological find, so makes for an interesting visit.
The entrance to Luxor Temple is awesome.
The general vibe in Luxor and Aswan.
From my experience, the two cities are completely different offering unique Egyptian experiences, so if you are the type of traveller that leans towards a certain style of trip, then I would definitely consider the following details.
Luxor is absolute chaos, and I mean CHAOS!
From the second I stepped off the sleeper train from Cairo, I had locals offering me lifts, excursions, and even a McDonald’s (this gets very tedious after a while).
Once you battle through the bodies in the train station and start heading towards your hotel, Wacky Races begins! Horses and Carts, mopeds, tuk tuks and taxis all whizz by, and all give the obligatory beep just to be noisy, Egyptian’s love to beep their horn!
You get the picture now? Day and night, there will be noise, action and car horns.
It isn’t all bad though. It can be fun interacting with the locals, and trying to decipher the local culture, especially in the Egyptian markets (more on this later).
The sensory attack in a new destination is a lure that has always ticked the box on my travels.
Luxor’s main road is constant chaos - day and night.
If you are looking for a more tranquil break, then Aswan might be suited to you!
One thing is for sure, a wander around Elephantine Island in Aswan will give you the peace and quiet that you will be craving after experiencing Cairo or Luxor.
Although Aswan does have its share of mayhem, there are opportunities to escape it. You can unwind in the Botanical Garden, or wander around the quiet cool Nubia Museum.
If you stay in a Nubian Guest House (which I recommend), they offer a laid back vibe. It is a cool activity to chill in one of the rooftop terraces with a smoothie and watch the world go by on the River Nile.
If it is chaos you are looking for though, the Nubian Villages is the best place to start!
Locals floating on the River Nile in Aswan.
Street art in Luxor and Aswan.
In two cities where the ancient landmarks capture all the attention, the modern street art is often overlooked, however, the street art murals contribute heavily to brightening up Luxor and Aswan.
Only in recent times have the people of Luxor been open to graffiti art, as it was frowned upon for many years during the revolution. The Egyptian Government has taken steps to protect the historical sites from such art, with strict penalties in place.
Historians have traced graffiti back to ancient times in Luxor though, so it is not a new phenomenon, as its origins in the once called ‘Thebes’ dates back to the time of the New Kingdom period.
Street Art in Luxor.
Aswan is a city where graffiti art has been more widely accepted as far back as 5000 years ago in the pre-dynastic era.
The Temple of Philae is marked with graffiti inscriptions that record the names of Nubian Kings and Queens.
In modern times, art is even more popular in Aswan, and has even been backed by the Egyptian Government to promote tourism and cultural awareness. The street art murals in the southern city depict local life and ancient imagery illustrating the importance of the history of the city.
You will find many colourful murals along the Kornish Al Nile (main road), as the locals remind visitors of the city’s many different cultures historically.
Vibrant Murals are dotted all along the Kornish Al Nile in Aswan.
Is the Accommodation better in Luxor or Aswan?
You will find accommodation is very reasonable throughout Egypt.
On average, Hotels across Egypt are $80 per night, with the mean cost of budget hotels coming in at around $34.
Luxor and Aswan have properties to suit all budget ranges. One thing I would say, is to check the reviews from recent travellers before committing to a property.
It is famously known that Egyptians tend to rate their hotels on the higher side, so their idea of 5 * might differ significantly to yours! There are well known branded hotels in the city, such as Hilton Luxor.
On my trip, the different hostels & hotels all matched my expectations, so I had no issues.
Bob Marley appears to be very popular with Egyptian people - His name and face is a theme all around Egypt, especially in Luxor for Hotels.
“There are eight different ‘Bob Marley’ themed accomodations in Egypt - Does anyone know why? Let me know in comments if you do, as it intrigued me for my whole backpacking trip”
Luxor accommodation.
There are around 400 property choices available in Luxor, therefore, it is a minefield to choose the perfect property.
Here is a few notable ones that I would recommend, going off personal experience and speaking to other tourists when touring the city:
Bob Marley Hotel & Restaurant.
My personal experience staying in this hotel went smoothly. The location was central and was within walking distance of all the East Bank highlights. The rooms have air conditioning and comfortable beds, and a private bathroom with a shower. The host goes above and beyond to help you plan or book tours also.
The only palace located on the West Bank of the Nile. The beautiful hotel has peaceful rooms, and a sensational breakfast. It is grand on the inside and outside with luxurious decor. It is a break away from the chaos in the city.
This is a modern and spacious option on the West Bank of the Nile. The famous historical sites are only a few km away, so within walking distance on cooler days. There are also bicycle rental options at the hotel, if you want to cycle to the Valley of the Kings.
Bob Marley Hotel in Luxor.
Aswan accommodation.
There are a range of different options in Aswan for accommodation. From Nubian guesthouses to world famous hotels.
Here are few options for you to consider:
I had an awesome experience staying at this Nubian Guesthouse. Located on Elephantine Island, along with the other Nubian guesthouses, this option offers tranquility in abundance. There is a cool rooftop terrace overlooking the Nile which offers authentic Egyptian cuisine.
The Aswan Nile Palace Hotel is famous for its rooftop swimming pool that offers fantastic views of the River Nile. You will also have free WI-Fi and air conditioning in your room.
Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan.
This world famous hotel has its place in history with notable people such as Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie staying in this luxurious option. You can also grab a high tea, or dining experience to remember on site, along with access to a private pool overlooking the Nile.
Secure your spot in this famous hotel here.
Another Bob Marley themed place. A Nubian Guest House on Elephantine Island.
Which city has the best food?
If I am being honest the food in Egypt wasn’t my favourite cuisine, and I did not enjoy it during my Cairo city break.
Having travelled through Asia, my benchmark is now very high.
However, I did try some more authentic Egyptian food in both Luxor and Aswan.
My two experiences are detailed below:
A meal at the famous Sofra Restaurant in Luxor.
There are many food establishments in Luxor, ranging from street food stalls to high end International restaurants.
Following some prior research, I opted to dine at the highly rated Sofa Restaurant.
My meal consisted of some local dishes including meatballs, fava beans, tagine chicken, and some freshly baked bread.
This experience was awesome and the brilliant service made my meal so much more enjoyable.
Want to cook like an Egyptian?
Sofra Restaurant offers a cooking experience which starts in the local markets buying fresh produce, and then follows step-by-step cooking lessons from the experienced chefs. You then enjoy your authentic Egyptian meal for lunch.
Sampling the local cuisine in the Nubian Guesthouse.
In Aswan you will find some unique dishes due to the Nubian influence.
Nubian cuisine is known for a strong use of spices and a variety of fresh fruit, vegetables and herbs, all offering a blend of African flavours.
I enjoyed a chicken dish with a Nubian twist in the Bob Marley Guesthouse where I was staying. The portion size was value for money and the taste was incredible.
Aswan: Private Home-Cooked Meal with a Local Family.
If you want to enjoy some traditional Nubian cuisine in the most authentic way possible then enjoying an evening home cooked meal in a Nubian home is the perfect way to do it.
The hosts will teach you about the history and culture of the famous African people.
Book your place in one of the colourful Nubian homes here.
A taste of Nubia in Aswan.
One unique aspect of Aswan’s culture that can’t be matched in Luxor are the Nubian villages. The local culture is displayed across its cuisine, coffee, guesthouses and the overall general vibe in Aswan.
Nubian coffee is made with finely ground coffee beans and is brewed in a special pot called a jebena. It is often served with spices, such as cardamom and cinnamon.
The best place to try Nubian food is in a traditional Nubian restaurant. These restaurants are typically located in the Nubian villages on the west bank of the Nile River. Nubian restaurants offer a unique dining experience, with traditional Nubian music and dance performance.
A Local in his house in the Nubian Village in Aswan.
A common sight in the Nubian villages is local children riding camels unsupervised!
Camel riding is a popular activity for tourists and locals alike, and it is a great way to experience the Nubian culture.
The camels in the Nubian villages are typically well-trained and gentle, and they are used to being ridden by children.
As you explore the villages, you can expect to have to stand to the side to let a pack of camels trot past. This makes for some great photo opportunities.
Local boys riding camels is a popular sight in the Nubian Villages.
Entering a Nubian home in Aswan is a unique and authentic experience. Nubian homes are typically made of mudbrick and are decorated with colourful paintings and textiles. The interiors are often spacious and airy, with high ceilings and large windows.
Upon entering a Nubian home, you will likely be greeted by the family matriarch. She will offer you a seat on a cushioned divan or on the floor. You will be served traditional Nubian tea or coffee, and the family will begin to chat with you about your travels and their lives.
My personal experience of entering the Nubian homes was fun and something completely unique from my other travel experiences. Some of my vivid memories include:
The smell of incense and spices:
There was a distinct aroma of incense and spices in the Nubian homes I entered. This is because Nubian’s use incense to purify their homes and to create a welcoming atmosphere.
The sound of traditional music:
Nubians love music and dance, and you may hear traditional Nubian music playing in the background when you enter a Nubian home. I witnessed the locals build an atmosphere and get tourists involved with clapping to a beat, before they brought some drums out and played some live music. This encouraged the tourists to dance with the locals creating a lively fun moment.
Colourful textiles and murals:
Nubian homes are typically decorated with colourful textiles and paintings. These textiles are often made from natural fibres, such as cotton and wool. Painted murals are displayed on the streets, and homes and typically depict scenes from Nubian life or traditional Nubian symbols.
Crocodiles:
Nubians are known for keeping crocodiles as pets and decorating their homes with crocodile art. I didn’t see a live crocodile, but I saw some replica ones hung on walls in the homes. The animals are sacred to the culture of the villages.
Enjoying the vibe in a Nubian Home in Aswan.
A better market experience in Luxor.
Tourist bazaars and local markets are a significant aspect of Egyptian culture throughout the country.
The market experience in Luxor and Aswan is quite different. Luxor is a larger and more popular tourist destination, so its markets are more crowded and the vendors are more aggressive. Aswan is a smaller and more relaxed city, so its markets are less crowded and the vendors are less pushy.
You will find prices are higher in Luxor due to more tourists, so be prepared to haggle hard to grab your bargain! You will find more variety of souvenirs here though.
I purchased a personalised ancient Egyptian bookmark with my name in hieroglyphs on the back, which is a lovely keepsake. I also sat and had tea with some locals while they hand wrote them out. This felt like an authentic experience which was lacking elsewhere in the city.
Aswan is more of a local market, therefore, you can walk through it without getting chased and shouted at (as much), so you can actually observe the market vendors in peace. You will find some Nubian handcrafts, along with an abundance of local spices.
You should be able to negotiate a lower price here!
The markets are an important aspect of Egyptian culture.
‘Drinking Tea with Eddie in Egypt’
Is Luxor or Aswan better for solo travel?
Egypt is not an easy country to navigate as a solo traveller, with the language barrier, and cultural differences, however, it can be very rewarding if you plan accordingly.
I spent time in both Luxor and Aswan when I visited Egypt alone, and out of the two cities, Luxor was the city where I had more positive interactions with tourists. Booking on official tours of the temples is a way that I found to be easy to meet like minded travellers.
In terms of locals, I found Aswan to be more enjoyable, as they aren’t quite as pushy when it comes to harassment and selling you things.
Pre-planning in advance and finding accommodation with nice social areas is a key tip I would share during your Egypt trip.
A tour guide explaining the history at Karnak Temple in Luxor.
How to travel between Luxor and Aswan?
Egypt is a vast country, so travelling between the different cities can involve some planning and long journey times.
Travelling between Aswan and Luxor isn’t too complicated though, as there are a variety of options which are detailed here:
Train.
Trains are fairly frequent between Aswan and Luxor, with around 7 services operating daily, with around a 3-4 hours journey time, however, they are not always on time.
My train from Luxor to Aswan was two hours late! Luckily the train prior to mine was also really late, so I jumped on that one with my ticket. The train is still a good choice, but just don’t plan an activity for just after your arrival in Luxor or Aswan.
More information booking your trains can be found here.
Be careful when purchasing your ticket in the train station as I got overcharged by the official tourist desk, and then fobbed off as a ‘tourist price’ when questioning it.
Nile Cruise.
A more expensive option, but definitely a more luxurious one is a cruise on the Nile. If you opt to use this method of transport you can expect to pay upwards of £250 for a 4/5 day cruise, but this includes temple tickets for the two cities.
Felucca Boat.
Sailing on a felucca boat is on many visitors’ bucket lists. This option will take as long as 6 days to travel between the two cities, but it will allow you to take in the beautiful Egyptian scenery at a slower pace.
Road.
It is around a three hour drive between the two cities, therefore, driving or a taxi is another great option.
The ’First Class’ conditions on the Luxor to Aswan train.
How about you visit Luxor and Aswan?
You wouldn’t want to head to Southern Egypt and not make the most of it while you are there!
Planning a cruise in advance is a great way to tick both Luxor and Aswan off.
From Aswan: 4-Day Nile Cruise from Aswan to Luxor with Guide.
Ancient treasure seeking aboard a five star luxurious cruise ship on the Nile sounds like a dream, but it can be a reality for you! Secure your spot on this tour before you arrive in Egypt.
My final verdict on which city is better to visit is Aswan.
Although it is a close call with both cities offering their own unique perspective on the history of Egypt, I felt the relaxed vibe in Aswan was more inviting than the chaos of Luxor. Maybe I just needed a break after Luxor and Aswan gave me that!
If you get as far down the Nile as Luxor, it makes sense to add Aswan to your itinerary, so you can enjoy the best of both worlds on your Egypt backpacking trip.
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